Darwin in the Galapagos Islands
Where was Darwin in Galápagos and what did he see? When Charles Darwin
visited the Galápagos Islands for 5 weeks (15 September -20 October) in
1835, he did not leave an obvious account of where he landed on each island.
While the islands were all named (from the whalers and buccaneers), few of
the beaches and volcanos, bays and hills were named as they are today. Thus
discovery of the exact locations Darwin went ashore on each of the four
islands he visited (Chatham (San Cristobal), Charles (Floreana), Albemarle
(Isabela) and James (Santiago)), requires some detective work; i.e. looking
for clues in his journals and notebooks. In 1996 this is precisely what we
did. First we travelled to England to examine Darwin's original manuscripts
from the voyage as well as his published accounts of Galapagos, and Captain
FitzRoy's map and log of the HMS Beagle. Armed with this information we set
off into the field from 19 October to 14 December to retrace Darwin's
footsteps. Not only did we identify the sites where Darwin walked but also
specific geological formations that caught Darwin's eye and which he
described at length. We also made natural history observations of the flora
and fauna which Darwin described, in order to comment on changes that have
occurred in the 165 years between Darwin's visit and our expedition. Our
findings are published in Notes and Records of the Royal Society,
London, September 2000, and entitled Darwin in Galápagos: His Footsteps
through the Archipelago.
September 15 - Beagle en route to San Cristobal Island, passes Espanola Island but does not anchor. September 16 - Darwin lands at Cerro Tijeretas, San Cristobal Island for 1 hour. September 17 - Darwin spends afternoon on shore at Puerto Grande, San Cristobal Island. September 18 - Darwin lands at Terrapin Road and climbs Pan de Azucar. September 19-20 - Beagle en route to Fresh Water Bay September 20 - Beagle collects fresh water. No indication that Darwin went ashore here. September 20-21 Beagle en route to Stephens Bay, San Cristobal Island. September 21-22 Darwin examines the Craterized District, San Cristobal, passing by Cerro Brujo which he describes in detail and spending the night on a small beach that borders the southern edge of the flow. September 22-24 Beagle en route to Floreana Island. September 25 Darwin explores the settlement in the highlands of Floreana from a landing at Black Beach. Meets the acting governor of Floreana. 
September 26 Darwin explores Post Office Bay. September 27 Darwin climbs Cerro Pajas. September 28- Beagle en route to Isabela Island, passes by Isla Tortuga which Darwin describes in detail from the ship. September 29 Beagle rounds the southern end of Isabela Island, anchoring briefly at Iguana Cove. No indication that Darwin went ashore here. September 30 Beagle arrives at Tagus Cove. October 1 Darwin explores Beagle Crater. October 2-8 Beagle en route to Santiago Island October 8- Darwin and 3 companions camps at Buccaneer Cove, Santiago Island October 9-10 Darwin explores the highlands (up to Jaboncillos) of Santiago, staying the night at a hovel made by tortoise hunters. October 11- Darwin taken by tortoise hunters by boat to James Bay where he lands and explores the Salt Mine. October 12-13 Darwin explores the highlands again and spends night in a "hovel" made by tortoise hunters. October 14-16 Darwin explores and makes collections around Buccaneer Cove October 17 Darwin and his companions are picked up by the Beagle. October 18-20 Beagle en route through northern part of Archipelago and off towards Tahiti. |